Check the remote batteries, the isolator switch next to the outdoor unit, and your switchboard for a tripped circuit breaker.

Sometimes circuit breakers will trip due to power fluctuations in the area. Try resetting it once but if it trips again, leave it off and book a service, as this points to a more serious fault.

Musty or damp smell: This is typically caused by mould or bacterial growth on the indoor coil, usually due to restricted airflow keeping the unit cold and wet. To help prevent this, keep your air filters clean and avoid running the system on the lowest fan speed. If a musty smell persists, the indoor unit will need to be professionally disassembled and cleaned.

Burning smell: Turn the unit off immediately at the isolator switch and contact a licensed professional to have the unit inspected.

Record the fault details: Take a photo of the error code or a 10 second video of any flashing lights. This will give your service technician a head start, saving you time and money.

Try a system reset: Turn the unit off at the main isolator switch for 5 minutes, clean and replace your filters, then turn it back on. This can clear temporary software glitches and solve simple airflow related issues.

Book a service if it returns: If the error code reappears after the reset, there is an underlying issue that requires diagnosis. Keep the unit off and contact us to book a technician.

Check your remote settings: Ensure the mode is set to Cool (not Fan, Dry, or Auto) and the set temperature is lower than the current room temperature.

Check physical airflow: Clean the indoor air filters, and make sure the outdoor unit isn't blocked by plants, garden debris, or outdoor storage.

For multi-head systems: Try turning on all other indoor units to Cool. If an indoor unit suddenly starts cooling when another is turned on, the system may be cross-wired and will require a service call to rectify.

Assess for low refrigerant: If the system still blows warm air and isn't displaying a fault code, it has likely lost refrigerant. A technician will need to inspect the system, locate the leak, and perform a repair.

This is a classic symptom of low refrigerant.

In cooling mode, the indoor fan starts immediately, blowing room-temperature air that can easily be mistaken for active cooling. Heating mode works differently: the indoor fan stays off until the coil reaches 35°C to prevent cold drafts.

If the system has lost refrigerant, the outdoor unit will run continuously, but the indoor coil will never reach that 35°C threshold—meaning the indoor fan stays off completely. To fix this, the leak must be found and repaired before the system is recharged with refrigerant.

This is usually caused by a blocked, kinked, or sagging drain line, and you may be able to resolve it yourself before needing a service call.

Check nearby plumbing: If your system drains into a nearby sink trap (similar to a dishwasher drain), check the spigot and hose for blockages, kinks, or sags that restrict water flow.

Check the outdoor outlet: Look around your outdoor unit or nearby downpipes for the small drain line (20mm diameter). A pipe discharging near a garden bed can easily become blocked with dirt or plant growth.

If the leak persists: Turn the unit off to prevent water damage to your floors or plaster, and contact us to clear the drain.

Note: Please take care not to pull or step on any insulated copper refrigerant lines when checking the outdoor unit.

This is completely normal!

During Cooling: Your indoor unit produces condensation, which drains out to a designated discharge point outside your home.

During Heating: Your outdoor unit produces condensation (and may occasionally ice up before running a defrost cycle and draining away).

Where it goes: Condensate water should drain safely into a garden bed, downpipe, or gully trap. If it is leaking somewhere it shouldn't—like onto a walkway, decking, or back inside through the wall—take some photos of the problem and surrounding area so we can provide an estimate to rectify.

Cracking and Creaking: Normal thermal expansion and contraction as the system heats or cools. These sounds should settle down once the unit reaches its operating temperature.

Rattles: Usually caused by a loose panel, loose screws, or a cover that isn't fully latched or clicked into place.

Ticking or Vibration: Typically indicates a mechanical issue such as an out-of-balance fan blade or a worn bearing - this will need to be diagnosed and repaired by a technician.

Wooshing or wheezing: Restriction in airflow. On wall units, a blocked or dirty filter causes a rushing/whooshing sound, while on ducted systems it can manifest as a wheezing sound. Cleaning or replacing the filter usually resolves this.

Unless we are responding to a specific fault, some things we will be on the lookout for include:

Filters & Ductwork: Good airflow is the single most critical factor for system efficiency and performance.

Pressures & Temperatures: Measuring operating pressures and temperatures allows us to judge if the system is correctly charged without having to recover and weigh the refrigerant.

Controller Settings: Occasionally, minor changes to the controller can make a big difference in system stability and comfort.

Critical Components: Testing wear-and-tear parts like capacitors and sump heaters to help prevent unexpected breakdowns when you need the system most.

Signs of Leaks: Checking for early signs of refrigerant or drainage leaks so minor issues are caught before becoming costly repairs.

Inverter Systems: Keep the filters clean and you're good to go! If cleaning the filters doesn't resolve an issue, please book a service call.

Non-Inverter (Cooling Only): Clean the filters regularly (every 6 months) and book a service call once every 2 years.

Non-Inverter (Heating & Cooling): Clean the filters regularly (every 3–6 months) and book a service call yearly.

Commercial Systems: Due to higher usage and difficult-to-access filters, servicing every 6 to 12 months is recommended to maintain performance and satisfy lease agreements.

We regularly service all major brands—including Daikin, Mitsubishi Electric, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Panasonic, Fujitsu General, and Haier—as well as most other wall-mounted and ducted systems. If you know your system’s brand and model, feel free to include it in your request.

$264 for the first hour, then $132 per hour after that (GST included). Parts are quoted separately and usually arrive within 5 to 15 days from time of order.

To locate and repair a leak, then recharge the system, typical costs (2026 prices) are approximately:

Wall-Mounted Split System: $500–$850 (GST included)

Ducted System: $1,000–$1,500 (GST included)

Prices vary depending on the size of the system and complexity of the repair—most notably the location of the leak. If replacement parts are required or a leak is exceptionally difficult to trace, a follow-up visit may be necessary, which will incur additional costs.

Yes. We inspect the system on site and write a report on what we find, with a link to photos and videos of the faults, for insurance claims and for disputes about a faulty or poorly done installation or repair.

Who it's for: Insurance claims, cases at the Victorian Civil and Administrative Tribunal (VCAT), complaints to the Building and Plumbing Commission (BPC, formerly the VBA) or Consumer Affairs Victoria, and other disputes with an installer or builder.

What it costs: Time on site and time writing the report are charged at our standard service rates: $264 for the first hour, then $132 per hour (GST included).

An independent report: The report sets out what we find and why, whichever way it falls. Tribunals and insurers expect an expert's report to be impartial, so we can't write one to suit either side.

How to book: Fill in the service request form and mention that you need a report, attaching any photos, quotes or invoices you already have.

Fill in the service request form with your details, a description of the problem and any photos or videos. We'll reply within 24–48 hours during peak periods to arrange a time.

You can upload up to five files, 100 MB in total, with the form. For anything larger, email it directly to info@leadingedgehc.com.au.